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Porto is small enough to walk past the highlights in half a day, but I spent nearly a week hoofing it around, taking in one stunning sunset after the next. Lookout points are labeled on tourist maps as miradouros. Each is unique, though none is a match for Praia da Luz, or beach of light. A historic trolley runs from the center to where the river flows into the ocean in the Foz do Douro neighborhood. A short walk north through a seaside park brings you the rocky beach, where I nursed a glass of vinho verde, Portugal's light, dry white wine, on a plush lounge chair. The sun dipped into the Atlantic where medieval maps once depicted fire-breathing sea serpents. Fortunately, there's more to Porto than postcard-worthy pictures, with more to come. The thwack of hammers echoing off the tiled facades on nearly every street heralds a tourist boom. Already, the downtown around Avenida dos Aliados, which was seedy as recently as five years ago, has new life.